Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Like a picture postcard, only better!


Greetings from Amsterdam: the land of bicycles, canals, cafes and, yes, coffee shops. We arrived via high-speed train from Brussels this a.m. (Have I mentioned in the last 60 seconds how much I like trains?). One very short cab ride later, and we were at our new digs – a beautiful little apartment in the fashionable Jordaan section of the city. I've enjoyed the homey B&Bs and small hotel that we've stashed ourselves in during the past 10 days, but nothing beats coming back to your own apartment – especially one as nicely appointed, well-located and well-kept as this one is. For those of you looking for an interesting change from hotels, try renting a vacation apartment through Vacation Rental By Owner, Air B&B or similar outfits. We've stayed in four apartments during the past few years, and we haven't gotten a turkey yet.

Welcome to our Amsterdam neighborhood
Jordaan is an old working-class neighborhood in the northwest corner of the city that is home now to artists, cafes and, undoubtedly, the very well-to-do. I can't imagine what the cost of property here must be. But in this compact city, where one of the biggest dangers you face is being run over by enthusiastic bicyclists, walking is a joy. After resting up for an hour or two, Judy and I set out on our first walking tour, which took us over canal after canal, past gabled brick buildings and through historic neighborhoods. What can I say – it looks just like the pictures. It's that good!!

Of course yesterday was pretty special as well, as we took a day trip from Brussels north to Brugge. Lots of wandering amid medieval buildings including, believe it or not, a Crown Plaza Hotel under which the remains of a medieval settlement were discovered during construction. The hotel displays many of the finds in its conference center, and the walls of the conference rooms are lined with stone from the dig. Not your average conference center, if you ask me.

Brugge
Two disappointments however: a crappy waffle (Hard and dry; not fresh for sure) and the French fries. Maybe our “frittes” were inferior, but apart from being served in a paper cone and dipping them in mayo, they were, well – fries. Nothing special. Again, maybe we just had bad examples. C'est la vie.

By the way, mention “French fries” to a Belgian, and watch his hackles rise. You'll instantly be instructed that they have nothing to do with France (French refers to the cut – not the point of origin) and that they were invented in Belgium. So there!! It sort of reminds me of the old Hercule Poirot TV episodes, when Poirot would constantly have to correct people who thought he was French. “No, monsieur, I'm Belgian,” he would say through gritted teeth. Have a little respect, people!

These culinary disppointments, however, were offset by a visit to a local brewery. (What, again?? Yes, again!!) Great beer at De Halve Maan (The Half Moon) Brewery – the only one in Brugge. Drank the beer. Bought the glasses.

Anyway, we're in the home stretch of this visit. Three days of touring Amsterdam and the surrounding area and then we're airborne, headed for Phoenix (provided that the canals don't rise here and the dust doesn't blow in from Iceland). Between now and then, I'm going to try to get Judy on a bicycle to do some local touring and pay a visit to a cafe that serves more potent refreshments than coffee.

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