Saturday, May 21, 2011

York -- The pubs have ascended during "The Rapture" and settled here

Yorkminster

It was great to be back in London, but yesterday, we boarded a train (I LOVE train travel. Fast and a fraction of the hassle of flying) and headed about 200 miles north to York. If you've never been to York, it's definitely worth the visit. York is the traditional capital of northern England, and there's more history here than you can shake a stick at. The walls of the medieval city, which are in remarkably good shape, are built upon the walls erected by the earlier Roman city. Throw in the Vikings and Anglo-Saxons in between, and ya' got yourself some heavy duty history, folks.

Towering over everything in Yorkminster, a truly spectacular cathedral that, as near as I can tell, is on the nearly the same scale as Westminster, Notre Dame, etc. The difference here is that it dominates the vista in this modest city and that it can be seen for miles across the flat Yorkshire landscape.

Medieval walls, Yorkminster and a more modern rooftop
We're camped out at “The Farthings,” a very nice B&B about a 10-minute walk from the center of town. We spent much of yesterday on a rain-drenched walking tour led by one of York's many volunteer guides. It was spectacular. We got a great overview of the city and its history, hiked around atop the city walls and somehow managed to avoid getting drenched.

While I make sure to imbibe in the locally produced English ales (maybe a brewery tour later today), I'm satisfying my recently developed love of good tea as well. This involved a trip to a busy York tearoom yesterday for Earl Grey (very good) and scones (very fattening). It's a good thing we're walking a lot.


Yorkminster towers over everything
Speaking of pubs, though – if there's a shortage of good pubs in your area, it's probably because they've picked up and come over here to be close to their families. Maybe there was a pub Rapture and the pubs ascended to here.  You can't swing a dead cat here without it hitting a pub. There are dozens, all serving cask-conditioned ales, and all of them crowded. Nevertheless, I'll have my elbows out and will plow my way to the bar. I have my priorities.

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